Walk through the process of pruning a bare root fruit tree in Tricia’s video, where she prunes her new peach tree. Are you ready to plant and prune some bare root trees? The video has all the basic steps you need. Pursue some special pruning topics (like espalier) in more detail with these resources. BOOKS Do you own The Vegetable Gardener’s Bible? The hot-off-the presses companion volume is The Fruit Gardener’s Bible, with info on everything from pollination to pruning. If you’re…
Welcome Im Tricia a california organic gardener and its wintertime that means its time to prune the fruit trees; except word of caution don't prune your cherry trees and if you live in northern California don't prune your apricots those should wait till the summer when they're less susceptible to disease. The goal of pruning is to have a mature tree that's easy to harvest a little bit low growing and very productive. Today I'm going to prune my brand new peach tree the structure of the tree is very important you want a low strong structure one that's conducive to good fruit production and easy harvest, just picture a wine glass, a red wine glass or a tulip. You want the tree to grow out look for branches that cross over each other like this one or branches that grow into the tree those are the branches that we are going to be pruning. We're going to talk about two types of cuts the first one is a heading cut, a heading cut is where we cut above an outward facing bud, the outward facing bud is going to be the outward facing branch which is going to create that red wine affect for us. If we cut above an inward facing bud we're going to have a branch that grows back into the tree we don't want that so the kind of cut I'm going to use is a thinning cut and the second type of cut that we're going to demonstrate. Notice the collar that goes around the branch that's attached to the trunk you want to make your cut as close to the collar as possible without cutting into the collar you also don't want to cut too far out because then you'll leave a stub because this is a newly planted tree and i want to really control the structure and the growth I'm going to cut the trunk off and I'm going to cut it off anywhere between my knees and my waist. I'm just going to make sure that we have at least three to five good strong lateral branches coming out below the cut. So I know it seems scary but you just have to go for it. So now we can select which branches to keep and which branches to cut and the important thing to consider is the angle of the branch off the tree you want to keep branches that are about forty five degrees from the trunk and you don't want to keep branches that are less than forty five degrees or maybe even a little bit more than forty five degrees. While I've made a decision on what branches i want to keep and what branches i want to cut based on having a nice balance on the tree I'm gonna put a ribbon around the branches I'm going to keep and I'm going to cut the rest. I labeled the branches that I'm going to keep and I'm going to cut the branches that i don't want to keep and, my newly pruned peach tree. I hope that was helpful next time we are going to be talking about natural dormant spraying so until then grow organic for life!
pat volk Says:
Jan 28th, 2012 at 6:48 am
I watched your incredibly helpful video on pruning fruit trees. Can you tell me if it was a dwarf or standard size tree.
thanks, pat volk
Dong Yang Says:
Jan 28th, 2012 at 7:39 am
I have two persimon trees, two pear trees, two fig trees, an apple tree and one plum tree. Can you tell me what is the best fertilizer for these fruit trees and when is the best time to apply, please?
Gina Woodyatt Says:
Jan 28th, 2012 at 9:15 am
Your video on pruning fruit trees was *very* helpful, but this was done on a young tree. My peach is 8-10 years old. It has leaf curl I’m trying to control with copper fungicide, but it’s getting more difficult to deal with every year. Learning we can cut the trunk while the tree is dormant gave me the idea that this might help get rid of some of the disease on my tree. Can I cut the trunk down on an older tree or would that harm it too much to recover?
I love your videos! They’re the most helpful I’ve been able to find on the net. Thanks so much for publishing these!
Carl Paquin Says:
Feb 4th, 2014 at 3:16 pm
Cutting my apricot tree as shown in thie video (Feb 11, 2011) killed my tree. Not a good ideal to cut the trunk to waist level.
Stephanie Brown Says:
Feb 11th, 2014 at 11:11 am
Hello Carl, I’m sorry to hear about your apricot! This pruning method is recommended by Dave Wilson Nursery (a nursery that grows on average 3 million bare root trees a year) and university sources such as UC Davis, perhaps there is another culprit? There are a variety of reasons a tree can die including dead on arrival (it happens and is covered by our guarantee if the tree never leafed out and you called by June 1st), overwatering, frost damage, and disease.