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When and how to fertilize your fruit trees—use our online calculator

Mar 28, 2013 -
  When and how to fertilize your fruit trees—use our online calculator
'Arkansas Black Spur' apples on a robust, well-fertilized tree.

Make your organic orchard bountiful by fertilizing your fruit trees.

In our latest, research-based video, Tricia explains IF, when, and how much to fertilize your fruit trees. Keep reading here to learn more, and use our online fertilizer calculator.

Tricia with a Peach Tree

When to fertilize fruit trees

Right before bud break is the perfect time to fertilize your fruit trees. If you miss the moment and the trees have begun to bloom, you can still fertilize until June.

Don’t fertilize in late summer or fall, though, because the new growth put on by the tree can be damaged by frost.

The earliest time to fertilize? One month prior to spring growth.

Measure Annual Growth

Measure fruit trees to see if they need fertilizing

Not all fruit trees need fertilizer every year and they don’t need it in the same amounts.

Too much fertilizer means lots of leaves and shoots, and not a lot of fruit.

Luckily, fruit trees are pretty good at telling you what they need.

If the tree was pruned more than it typically is pruned in one year, don’t fertilize.

Begin your assessment of a tree by locating last year’s growth rings. The growth ring is the point on the branch where the tree started growing the previous year.

Measure from the growth ring all the way out to the end of the branch. Repeat these measurements at several spots around the tree, and average them as the previous year’s “annual growth” of the tree.

Annual Growth Rates

Use this chart to evaluate your tree’s annual growth. If the tree’s number is at the low end of growth, then you should fertilize the tree this year.

* Non-bearing peaches and nectarines should grow 18”-24”.
* Bearing peaches and nectarines should grow 12”-18”.
* Non-bearing apples and pears should grow 18”-30”.
* Bearing pears and bearing non-spur type apples should grow 12”-18”.
* Bearing spur apples should grow 6”-10”.
* Non-bearing plums and sweet cherries should grow 22”-36”.
* Bearing plums and sweet cherries should grow 8”.
* Non-bearing, tart cherries should grow 12”-24”.
* Bearing tart cherries should grow 8”.

Organic Nitrogen Fertilizers

How to choose fertilizer

Use an organic, high nitrogen fertilizer. Blood meal, soybean meal, composted chicken manure, cottonseed meal, and feather meal are good, organic nitrogen sources.

There are also specially formulated organic fruit tree fertilizers.

To provide micronutrients for your trees, add compost.

Back to math class—calculate how much fertilizer your fruit tree needs with our online calculator

For those of us who did not excel in math—fear not—we will walk you through the fertilizer calculations AND we have an online calculator for you.

So stop worrying that this is one of those awful Math Word Problems.

Rule of thumb: The amount of fertilizer is based on the age or size of the tree.

Trees need 1/10th of a pound of actual nitrogen per year of age, or per inch of trunk diameter (measured 1 foot above the ground). The maximum you should give a fruit tree in a year is 1 lb. of actual nitrogen.

The NPK numbers on fertilizer show the percentage of nutrients per pound of fertilizer. N, P and K refer to actual nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.

For example: If the N is 10 then there is 1/10th of a pound of actual nitrogen for every pound of fertilizer.

To calculate how much fertilizer to apply: divide the amount of actual nitrogen the tree needs by the percentage of nitrogen in the fertilizer.

In the video, for example, Tricia’s five-year-old apple tree needs a half a pound of nitrogen. The E.B. Stone Fruit Tree Fertilizer has a 7 for N. Half a pound or .5 divided by .07 equals 7 lbs, which is the amount of fertilizer to apply to get the proper amount of nitrogen.

We make it EASY for you to calculate the fertilizer for each tree. Our online calculator does the math for you.

Measure from Trunk

How to apply fertilizer to fruit trees

There are two ways to apply fertilizer to your trees.

The easiest way is just to spread the fertilizer on the ground, rake it in, and then water.

Don’t start fertilizing next to the trunk. Start a foot from the trunk and spread fertilizer evenly all the way out to the drip line.

The drip line is at the perimeter of the tree’s furthest reaching branches.

Digging a series of small holes is another method of applying fertilizer. It is a bit more work, but it ensures the fertilizer is getting to the tree roots.

To make the digging job easy you can use an auger attachment with a cordless drill.

Dig the holes six inches down and 12”-18” apart. Start drilling the holes a foot outward from the trunk and continue on to the drip line.

Take the fertilizer you’ve measured out according to the recommended rates and sprinkle a little in each hole until it is used up.

This is great for making sure less water soluble nutrients like phosphorus or beneficial mychorhizae in the fertilizer make it to the tree roots.

Once you have finished fertilizing, spread an inch of compost over the top and water well.

For more information on all aspects of fruit trees—choosing, planting, controlling pests, using your harvest—browse our storehouse of research-based videos and articles in Fruit Tree Central. Staff favorite books on fruit trees are The Home Orchard from UC Davis, along with The Fruit Grower’s Bible and Landscaping With Fruit.

Keep on living the dream with your organic orchard, now that you know when and how to fertilize your fruit trees.

Categories: Fruit Trees, Apple Trees, Pomegranate Trees, Pluot Trees, Plum Trees, Persimmon Trees, Pear Trees, Peach Trees, Nectarine Trees, Multi-Graft Trees, Mulberry Trees, Jujube Trees, Fig Trees, Cherry Trees, Apricot Trees, Quince Trees, Soil Amendments, Soil Conditioner, Organic Garden Compost, Pelleted Fertilizer, Powdered Fertilizer, Organic Fertilizer, Liquid Fertilizer, Pelleted Fertilizer, Powdered Fertilizer, Liquid Fish, Foliar Fertilizer, Organic Nitrogen Fertilizer, Water Soluble Fertilizer, Fertilizer Tablets, Fruits & Berries, Edible Landscaping, Organic Gardening 101, Urban Gardening & farming

miguel ucopvich Says:
Mar 29th, 2013 at 9:55 pm

Great info on how to fertilize a fruit tree. Al lthis time I thought you fertilized in tghe Fall

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Mar 30th, 2013 at 8:39 am

Miguel, Good to hear that this was helpful info! Thanks!

John Says:
Mar 30th, 2013 at 8:51 am

Thank you, very helpful.  I have trees about 12 years old but trunk diameter is only about 5”.  For the nitrogen calculation which takes precedence, age or diameter?

Gregg Young, CPAg Says:
Mar 30th, 2013 at 8:57 am

There are several points that are wrong. 1st, you use fertilizer to mean nitrogen, which contributes to the myth that fertilization only involves N.
2nd the recommendations result in far too much N fertilizer being applied - a 10 year old orchard with 200 trees/acre would need 200 pounds. I have over 100 studies ( I can send a list) that show relations of excess N and increased pest/disease problems.
3rd the time to fertilize deciduous trees is in the fall, not in the spring. The growth in the spring is from stored N in the form or proteins; spring N will over fertilize at the wrong time, resulting in increased fire blight, brown rot, etc. See: www, The UC, or whatever source you are using is wrong. Fruit trees need nutrients in the following quantities (1-3): K, N, Ca, then all the others.

Judi Wigren Says:
Mar 30th, 2013 at 9:06 am

I have pruned our trees so how can I measure how long the branches grew? Very informative. Thank you.

elizabeth perot Says:
Mar 30th, 2013 at 9:20 am

Do you have a formula for blueberry and raspberry bushes ?

Bud Says:
Mar 30th, 2013 at 11:48 am

My bare-root fruit trees (apple, peach, pear, and apricot) were planted late spring of last year.  They show no significant first year growth.  Should I follow the instructions of the video and feed at the maximum rate or wait until next year?

alicia spears Says:
Mar 30th, 2013 at 12:33 pm

Thank you so much for this info !!! I am new to gardening and had no idea you shouldn’t fertilize near the trunk !  This is gonna help me out ALOT

Mary Pat Palmer Says:
Mar 31st, 2013 at 8:27 am

Many thanks - one can never get too much good information about caring for fruit trees!

George Moergeli, Jr. Says:
Mar 31st, 2013 at 10:31 am

I have been using a fruit tree fertilizer from a farm supple with 0-8-17.
It also has Magnesium,8%,Sulfur,17% and Boron,1%.

Should I be adding Nitrogen?  So far I have had bumper crops of apples and must thin every spring.

kathy haugh Says:
Mar 31st, 2013 at 12:37 pm

enjoyed your information.  new to fruit growing.  find the formule helpful.  have enjoyed some of your other videos also.

Myrna Greene Says:
Mar 31st, 2013 at 2:44 pm

If 7 pounds of fertilizer is needed, why is Tricia only applying 3 pounds?

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Apr 1st, 2013 at 2:03 pm

John, Use the diameter instead of the tree age since the tree is not large for its age. You might over-fertilize if you used the age as the basis.

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Apr 1st, 2013 at 2:09 pm

Gregg, Thank you for your feedback. You are correct that excessive N can cause all those issues; that is why we suggest measuring the annual growth and only fertilizing when the trees fall at the low end or below the target growth. The reason our calculations are based on N for fruit trees is that N is the most growth-limiting factor. The universities suggest fertilizing in spring not fall to avoid a flush of tender growth that would be killed by frost.

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Apr 1st, 2013 at 2:09 pm

Judi, Were there ANY branches that were not headed? If so, measure them.

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Apr 1st, 2013 at 2:11 pm

Bud, You could have soil, irrigation or sun issues—but we suggest trying the fertilizer first. Go ahead and fertilize at the maximum rate.

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Apr 1st, 2013 at 2:14 pm

George, Congratulations on your good harvests. We think you have high N in your soil, possibly from being near turf grass/lawn, or naturally occurring. If fruit trees are planted near a lawn or other fertilized garden plots, the fruit tree roots can reach out and get N from those areas.

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Apr 1st, 2013 at 2:20 pm

Elizabeth, Here is info about fertilizing blueberries and raspberries Raspberries want soil high in organic matter, so work in some compost; you can also add a balanced organic fertilizer in early spring.

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Apr 1st, 2013 at 2:21 pm

Kathy, We are very happy to hear you are enjoying our videos! Thank you!

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Apr 1st, 2013 at 2:22 pm

Alicia and Mary Pat, Thanks for your kind words!

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Apr 1st, 2013 at 2:24 pm

Myrna, You have sharp eyes! We used the apple tree as a hypothetical example and the actual tree fertilized in the video was a younger, smaller apricot tree.

Bridget Says:
Apr 2nd, 2013 at 7:03 am

How about Walnut?

Indira Says:
Apr 2nd, 2013 at 7:32 am

What do your recommend for fertilizer and schedule citrus and avocados?

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Apr 3rd, 2013 at 12:03 pm

Bridget, As long as your walnut tree looks healthy and is producing a crop, do not fertilize it.

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Apr 4th, 2013 at 10:16 am

Indira, Citrus and avocados are very similar in requiring a higher nitrogen than phosphate or potassium (minimum 2-1-1). 
The feeding schedule will vary depending on the age of the tree, with more frequency when younger.  Following directions of the product label will designate frequency and age or truck diameter requirements.  Usually both require fertilizing 3 to 4 times a year. 

In addition, citrus and avocados require trace minerals.  Lack of these will result in a lack of sweetness in citrus - if fertilizer does not include trace minerals, they should be added twice a year as a supplement.  For this reason, EB Stone Citrus & Fruit Tree Food 7-3-3  is a good match for these trees requirements since it has both macro and micro- nutrients .

Symptoms of nutrient deficiencies are as follows:

Pale green leaves verging to yellow, can be low nitrogen.
Green veins with pronounced yellow between, can be low iron (trace mineral).
Mottled green and yellow starting at the outside of the leaves, can be low zinc (trace mineral) - especially on avocados.
Yellow leaves on citrus, can be either over watering or lack of nitrogen.
Burnt tips on green leaves, can be a sign of over fertilizing.

A well-balanced fertilizer including trace minerals, fed at the appropriate amounts and intervals should avert deficiences.  Environmental stresses can cause other issues for citrus, but with proper nutrition they will be healthier and less likely to fail.

D L Reynolds Says:
Apr 28th, 2013 at 8:36 am

Do the growth measurements indicated apply to dwarf fruit trees, standards, or all sizes? Many thanks.

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Apr 29th, 2013 at 11:15 am

D.L., The university discussions of growth measurements do not distinguish between dwarf, semi-dwarf, and standard fruit trees. Please note that the trunk size of the dwarf tree will be smaller, the semi-dwarf and standard trunk sizes will be similar.

Donna Says:
May 7th, 2013 at 8:56 am

I have “Stella” Cherry Tree, i bought in 2009. it doesn’t produce that much fruits. what do i need to do?

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
May 8th, 2013 at 10:31 am

Donna, Go ahead and do the measurements in this article and see if your Stella cherry tree needs to be fertilized. Since Stella is known for fruitfulness I think you should also do a soil test near the tree and see if any nutrients are lacking.

Jean Says:
Oct 2nd, 2013 at 11:34 am

I got two bare root jujube trees this Feb, and so far they have a very slow growth.  Didn’t see any new leafs for a while. And one of them start to turn a little bit yellow now. Should I fertilize them and water them more often now? Or I should wait until nxet spring? Thank you!

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Oct 3rd, 2013 at 11:17 am

Jean, The yellowing of the leaves is due to the season change and the tree getting ready to drop its leaves for the winter. Do wait until spring to fertilize, as we say in the article here. Jujubes do well in Texas and here is additional info about them from Texas A&M University (they also say to fertilize only in the spring) Jujubes don’t want to be soaked, so extra water is unlikely to be needed. Did you have a particularly dry summer and fall so far?

katherine Says:
Nov 12th, 2013 at 8:13 am

what about areas where it snows. Sometimes there is still a foot of snow on the ground in spring and the trees are already starting to bud and bloom. I don’t have the energy to dig up snow just to apply fertilizer (50+trees).

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Nov 12th, 2013 at 1:48 pm

Katherine, If your trees have begun to bloom while there is snow on the ground, don’t dig! Wait until the snow melts and you can still fertilize until June. Don’t fertilize in late summer or fall, though, because the new growth put on by the tree can be damaged by frost.

Rose Moon Says:
Nov 22nd, 2013 at 10:44 am

my peach tree has sap coming out on the branches.  it was also on the peaches this summer.  the trees are about 6 years old.  The branches do not seen to be damaged.  what can I do.

Stephanie Brown Says:
Dec 19th, 2013 at 5:31 pm

Rose Moon, The first step is to identify what’s wrong with the tree. There are about three common things that can be. If you can find small dark holes in the branches where the sap is coming from that is peach tree borer. If there are no holes and you’re seeing limb dieback and amber colored gum, it’s probably bacterial canker. If it is a dwarf peach tree the answer is sometimes the roots suck up more water than the tree needs and it bleeds out the top. Good luck with diagnosis, I hope you find the answer.

David Hazen Says:
Jun 9th, 2014 at 2:14 pm

It is now June 9 in Colorado at 5,400 ft. altitude. Can I go ahead and still fertilize?

Stephanie Brown Says:
Jun 10th, 2014 at 8:28 am

Hello David,

Yes, you can still go ahead and fertilize.

Korbin Says:
Jul 7th, 2014 at 2:29 pm

I used 18 18 18 to fertilize my lawn and I have a 20+ year old apple tree snake dab in the middle. the tree was neglected for years it recently got pruned and sprayed with insecticide. The tree is doing a hundred times better this year I was just wondering if the apples will be ok to eat with 18 18 18 laid down?

Stephanie Brown Says:
Jul 8th, 2014 at 8:14 am

Hello Korbin,

The apples will be just fine. The tree metabolizes the fertilizer. It’s sort of like if you had a goat that ate some poison oak, you wouldn’t get poison oak from eating the goat because the goat’s system had metabolized the poison oak. If the fertilizer contained some sort of systemic pest control their would be a problem, but if it was just fertilizer you’re fine.

Kim Says:
Jul 17th, 2014 at 8:10 pm

Very informative. I planted 4 potted sour cherry trees last summer and this spring planted 20 root stock same variety cherry trees. Last winter was very cold (85 days of 30 below or colder). Some of the branches died from trees that were planted last year. I had the soil tested by U of M and it stated I needed 33-0-0. Two questions: can I still apply as this late date and does that seem high in Nitrogen? I don’t want to burn the roots. New to fruit growing. Any info would be helpful. Live in Northern Minnesota. Thank you!

Stephanie Brown Says:
Jul 18th, 2014 at 10:41 am

Hello Kim,

It’s a bit late, especially in Minnesota, to fertilize a tree. If you fertilize now the tree will put out lush, young, growth that will most likely be caught and damaged in the first frost. A 33-0-0 would be a synthetic fertilizer. Organic options have lower nitrogen but they rarely burn roots, contain other necessary nutrients, and are slower release. A synthetic fertilizer is kind of like junk food, lots of calories (high analysis) but not a lot of really good nutrition. Organic fertilizers are more like a healthy diet, maybe not as many calories (lower analysis) but lots of other good nutrition as well. I’d recommend a good organic fertilizer formulated for trees. It will probably be something like a 7-4-2 or 6-3-3.

Pkthai Says:
Jul 18th, 2014 at 5:32 pm

How often to fertilize Passion
fruits tree, while they have fruits?

Suzanne at Peaceful Valley Says:
Jul 21st, 2014 at 11:04 am

I do not grow Passion fruits but the information found on the internet states that they should be monitored for deficiencies due to their rapid growth.  You should select a fertilizer with a higher amount of potassium (last number in the NPK listing). Don’t use too much nitrogen, it may lead to a lot of foliage and not many flowers. Consider fertilizing 4 times a year, concentrated on the active growing, flowering and fruiting stage.

mycual Says:
Jul 25th, 2014 at 1:25 pm

I have 5 pear & 5 apple with 4 to 6 ft. of growth this year and same last year.  a few blooms and a few fruit last year but none this year, the trees are 6 years old. last year I cut back 1/2 the new growth. how do I stop the new growth and start the trees to bloom and put on fruit. help

Suzanne at Peaceful Valley Says:
Jul 25th, 2014 at 4:31 pm

Apples and pears usually take quite some time to start putting on fruit, so I wouldn’t worry too much at this point. Not sure what type of fertilizer you are using, but if the trees are putting on 4-6 ft of growth, sounds like too much nitrogen. In the fall fertilize the trees with no nitrogen but a good supply of phosphorus and potassium. Peaceful Valley has a Foothill Fertilizer mix without nitrogen that I put on all my trees in the fall.

Another thing, have you had a soil test done? Your soil may be out of balance but right now you don’t know. A couple of things to think about and hope it helps.

Ditoon Says:
Oct 28th, 2014 at 8:52 am

Great article.Much thanks again. Great.

Margo Says:
Dec 2nd, 2014 at 3:08 pm

I went over this site and I think you have a lot of useful information, saved to bookmarks

James Guy Says:
Feb 1st, 2015 at 2:41 pm

This has been a lot of help.  I will try that this year.  I have been using drip line.  Thanks a lot.  James

Summer Thyme Says:
Feb 18th, 2015 at 2:45 pm

Great video! My husband and I just purchased our first home. One of the things I loved about the home was the fruit trees in back! The previous owner promised to leave detailed notes about each of the trees, including age and type. Due to the stress of the move, it must have slipped his mind. Any advice you can give me? I have no idea how to identify the type of trees or how to even know if they are fruit bearing!

Suzanne at Peaceful Valley Says:
Feb 19th, 2015 at 11:26 am

The identification of the trees leaves is usually telling of the type of tree. My suggestion is once the tree has leaves is to take it to a local garden center to get help on identification. The next step is to wait until it fruits (hopefully) and you will get an idea on the type of fruit tree, just not the variety. The best is to contact the previous owner and have them write down a list of trees for you.

linda Says:
Feb 20th, 2015 at 12:28 pm

good info. Is this a one time feeding application in the spring ? Or do you reapply while peaches are maturing. Thanks

Suzanne at Peaceful Valley Says:
Feb 20th, 2015 at 12:34 pm

Usually the application is right around blooming, but you can apply up until June. Really only one application is needed.

ED Says:
Feb 25th, 2015 at 9:58 pm

since all calculations are based on N , why make different high and low % of p and K ? those affect the productivity of the fruits and the sweetness . do not they have to be proportional to N ? Thank you for a reply

Suzanne at Peaceful Valley Says:
Feb 26th, 2015 at 6:05 pm

You make a good point about P and K. My guess is that the calculations are based on using a balanced fruit tree fertilizer and since N is really the driving force to growth (mostly). If your trees are growing at a sufficient rate, you can always use a fertilizer with higher levels of P and K. I like to use our Foothill Fertilizer Mix without Nitrogen in the fall for my fruit trees. If you are fertilizing in the spring you do not want to overload with N and if you use organic fertilizers the N are at levels more appropriate to produce healthy plants.

Manny G Says:
Mar 15th, 2015 at 12:46 pm

bought a fruit bearing fuji apple mid summer of last year, DID fertilize .. looking pretty sad now should I reapply this spring? Many thanks.

Suzanne at Peaceful Valley Says:
Mar 16th, 2015 at 9:45 am

Not sure where you are located but even in the foothills of CA right now, the apple trees are just starting to bloom, so they don’t look like much. What did you fertilize with, how is your soil to begin with? Maybe a soil test might be a good place to start.

Robin Says:
Jun 18th, 2015 at 6:19 pm

I have had a dwarf gala apple tree for 3 years and it get few blossoms and no fruit. It looks healthy, growth is slow, not vigorous shots but it looks fine. Could have a few more leaves but really a nice looking little tree. How can I get it to set fruit. I have no other apples but this one is supposed to be self fruiting.  This year was the first time I fertilized it…a few weeks before blossoms appeared and again when they appeared.  Help please?  Should I fertilize it now mid June?

Suzanne at Peaceful Valley Says:
Jun 19th, 2015 at 9:01 am

Robin, apple trees can take 4-5 years before they start bearing fruit, so I would not worry so much, especially since your tree looks healthy. You can apply a fertilizer that is higher in phosphorus to promote blossom formation. However, just sounds like your tree is just not old enough yet.

Stephanie Patil Says:
Jul 11th, 2015 at 9:48 am

Does the fertilizer calculator apply to dwarf and semi dwarf fruit (apple) trees?

Suzanne at Peaceful Valley Says:
Jul 14th, 2015 at 2:00 pm

Yes, the calculator will work for semi-dwarf or dwarf fruit trees.

Neil Says:
Jul 23rd, 2015 at 12:34 pm

I have plum and prune trees and since I bought the house for almost eight years ago, never fertilized. But now I see that the prune crop is reducing every year and I see big brown hive thingies on the tree. What fertilizer & how much to use and when? I am really bad at gardening and just learning the basics.
I also have a pear tree, which I never seen grow. It gives a couple of pears every year but they fall off before they mature. and I see they have all the dark black spots everywhere. Please help

Suzanne at Peaceful Valley Says:
Aug 4th, 2015 at 9:25 am

You can use a fruit tree fertilizer like the Dr. Earth Fruit Tree Fertilizer 7-4-2, and just follow the directions on the bag. If you really want to know if it is your soil, I would suggest a soil test to see where your soil nutrient levels are at. I cannot address some of the disease problems you are having. My suggestion is to take good photos and bring them to a local nursery or your local Ad Advisor to determine what disease is happening on your trees.

Fran Says:
Aug 25th, 2015 at 9:57 am

I’m in Phx,AZ. I have a peach tree I just planted in the spring. The leaves are starting to turn yellow. Is there anything to worry about. Should I fertilize now?

Suzanne at Peaceful Valley Says:
Aug 27th, 2015 at 11:50 am

Fran, I am not sure why your leaves are turning yellow. Do you know the fertility of your soil? Maybe try finding that out first with either a home soil test or sending your soil in for a professional lab test.

JohnD Says:
Oct 7th, 2015 at 5:33 am

I’ve started 8 fruit trees (2 plum, 2 apple, 2 cherry, and 2 peach), this spring.. heading into my first fall/winter has me nervous. smile

I’ve talked to the local tree nursery (where I got them), and they recommend fertilizing with a nice balanced fertilizer once all the leaves drop.  They’ve grown, and shown me their own personal trees that look great.  I have no reason to doubt them, and I would recommend anyone else looking for tips to try this as well.  .. and neem oil, they recommended that be applied once leaves drop as well. 

I’ll pop in with updates every year or two. smile

Suzanne at Peaceful Valley Says:
Oct 7th, 2015 at 11:26 am

JohnD, you should not fertilize with anything that contains nitrogen until the spring. If you are going to fertilize in the fall, use something that does not contain nitrogen. My recommendation is to just wait until the buds begin to swell in the spring, then add your fertilizer then. Not sure why you would be spraying with Neem. I can’t make any recommendations for spraying since not sure what you are spraying for. You may want to watch our video on Peach Leaf Curl for your peaches, Your .other trees are probably ok without any spraying, just keep an eye on them. Sometimes aphids can affect plums, just watch for any sign of ants marching up your tree. They will lead you to the aphids it you have them.

Jim Says:
Mar 28th, 2016 at 10:25 am

I have a mulch of coco peat around my two year old peach tree and I fertilized above the mulch with a water soluble balanced fertilizer NPK20;20;20 through drenching about 500 ml of 3 gram per liter solution. What is your thought and opinion? Thank You.

Suzanne at Peaceful Valley Says:
Mar 28th, 2016 at 10:57 am

Jim, sounds like you are using a synthetic fertilizer at an npk of 20-20-20. I think this is way too much for your trees. Did you use the calculator in the above article? Try it and it should give you the amount for your tree.

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