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organic gardening / articles / How to renovate, renew, and maintain a strawberry bed
How to renovate, renew, and maintain a strawberry bed
Feb 08, 2012 - Charlotte from Peaceful Valley
   
  How to renovate, renew, and maintain a strawberry bed
Strawberries are a beautiful and delicious addition to your garden. Follow our easy steps to keep your beds in top form.
 
   

Once you have a strawberry bed going, you need to renovate and renew it every year, to maintain healthy yields.

Strawberries are vigorous plants. As they increase you want to keep the beds from becoming overcrowded (which would reduce yield and could encourage diseases).

It sounds rather sedate when you read that “strawberry plants spread by sending out runners”.

To get the real sense of those runners, think 50-yard dash if you have June-bearer strawberries. Enjoy these athletes of the vegetable kingdom, but do some post-season training to keep them in check.

Everbearer and Day Neutral strawberries produce runners too, in the Junior Varsity for speed, but they also need supervision.

Your coaching duties begin after the last strawberry harvest.

STRAWBERRY HARVEST DATES

June-bearers or Short Day will produce over a 3 - 4 week period. It won’t be in June if you live in Southern California or Florida; your strawberry season could be as early as March. For cool climates, harvest will be closer to June.

Everbearers and Day Neutral strawberries produce throughout the summer, either in distinct crops or continuously.

DO A SOIL TEST AFTER THE FINAL HARVEST

Strawberries grow best in slightly acid soil with a pH of 6.0 - 6.5. Test your soil at the end of the harvest. If you need to make your soil more acid, add a phosphorus rich fertilizer. Since strawberries are also fond of potassium, look for a fertilizer that is high in the last two numbers, like Dr. Earth Bud and Bloom Booster.

Many organic fertilizer options are waiting for you in the Find Fertilizer Solutions guide on our Fertilizer page; for instance, click on Potassium or Phosphorus for your range of choices.

CUT & THIN STRAWBERRY PLANTS RIGHT AFTER HARVEST

Blow the whistle after the last harvest.

All varieties of strawberry plants should be cut back to a height of 2 inches. How you cut depends on the planting method you’re using.

Pull any weeds before you start renovation.

Matted Row Method

June-bearers are often planted with this method, and the runners spread all over the bed. If planted on the ground, it’s easy to cut the plants back with a lawn mower set high enough to leave 2” of stems above the crowns.

Matted rows in a raised bed should be cut back by hand.

Popular row widths on the ground, for easy picking, are 18” - 24”, with 24” paths between the rows. By the time of harvest the rows will have runners making them wider than 24”. Narrow the row to a pickable size again by hoeing the runners from the edges, reducing the row to about 12” across. Or if the “mother” plants in the center of the row are declining in vigor, hoe out the center of the row and leave two rows of “daughter” plants on the edges, as the basis for two new rows.

After you hoe, pull out the least healthy plants, leaving 5 or 6 robust plants for each square foot.

Hill Method

Hilling is popular for Everbearer and Day Neutral strawberries. You will not have as many runners to deal with here. Use garden scissors or shears to cut the plants back to 2” above the crowns.

*Whichever cutting method you use, rake away the cut leaves and compost them, if your plants are disease-free.

FERTILIZE

Choose your fertilizer according to your soil test results, apply, brush off any on the leaves, and water in well.

CULTIVATE

If you’ve been using organic matter for mulch, turn it in to the soil (if you can do so without damaging shallow roots) or add it to your compost pile.

Add 1/2” of compost around the crowns to encourage new roots.

Keep the bed weeded and then mulch it before the first frost.

ROTATE

Follow good organic gardening practices and rotate your crops regularly. Strawberries are particularly susceptible to the soil disease verticillium wilt. To avoid this disease:

1) Rotate the strawberries to a new location every 3 years.
2) Do not plant strawberries in a bed where you recently grew solanaceous plants (tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, peppers).

FOR MORE INFO on starting a new bed, watch our video of Tricia setting up irrigation and red plastic mulch, then planting out a strawberry bed.

We send a Strawberries Planting & Growing Guide with each purchase of our strawberry plants, with details on how to heel in, plant, and harvest the many kinds of strawberries we carry.

We read all the new books on organic and edible gardening, and for strawberry growers we especially recommend two books:

* Grow the Best Strawberries, an all-strawberries-all-the-time 32 page booklet in the reliable Storey Country Wisdom Bulletin series.

* The new guide to all things fruity, The Fruit Gardener’s Bible, is a big, colorful tome. If you already own The Vegetable Gardener’s Bible you’ll understand why we’re excited about this hot-off-the-presses book.

Valuable university articles are Growing Strawberries from Purdue, Growing Strawberries from the University of Illinois, and Strawberries in the Home Garden from North Carolina State.

Keep your team of strawberry plants thriving, year in and year out.


Categories: Berry Plants, Strawberry Plants, Fruits & Berries, Edible Landscaping, Urban Gardening & farming


Sandra Trank Says:
Feb 9th, 2012 at 6:14 pm

I had decided last summer to make a strawberry hill. Not quite like yours, it was just an idea I had. I didn’t cut them back though and wonder as it is still winter here in NY, can I cut them now or should I leave them alone? They were all pretty healthy and I had lots of daughters that I had to help find a spot to root in. I planted late but still got some nice berries. I look forward to this year as its their second season and should produce more but now I wonder if by not cutting them back, it will hinder the yeild. Thanks for any advice you can give me.

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Feb 14th, 2012 at 5:19 pm

Sandra, It sounds like you already thinned the strawberries to some extent by moving the daughter plants around? In any event, do not cut the plants back now. Wait until after the harvest of 2012. Sounds like a nice hill you have going!

Donja Garvey Says:
Feb 19th, 2012 at 6:36 pm

Charlotte, I read about successful plantings of strawberries in half-barrels. Is this a worthwhile planting container? I gravitated toward this idea since I live in Granite Bay, CA, outside of Roseville, and the soil is so full of clay that I’ve had trouble with keeping my plants robust. I also thought the barrels might deter the snails. Thanks for any advice.

Charlotte from Peaceful Valley Says:
Feb 20th, 2012 at 1:59 pm

Donja, Yes, that sounds like a great container for strawberries! Container gardening is a wonderful answer to the tricky soil problem. If the snails do find your containers, go to our Pest Control page and click in the Solutions Finder (left side bar) for Snail & Slug controls http://www.groworganic.com/weed-pest-control.html

Rachel Says:
Mar 21st, 2012 at 7:37 am

Donja, do you know anyone who has rabbits? I’m in New Hampshire, but my soil was so heavy with clay that weeds wouldn’t grow up on their own because the roots couldn’t push through the ground. Well, anyway I have a rabbit who uses organic corn cob as his litter mixing it deep, has helped a ton.

Donja Says:
Apr 23rd, 2012 at 2:15 pm

Hi Rachel! I hadn’t checked back on this post for some time and so I just saw your suggestion about rabbit litter from organic corn cobs to break up the soil! I had to laugh because I’ve had two house rabbits for a couple of years and have dutifully changed their litter and thrown it away in the trash. I never thought of using this as an effective compost for breaking up heavy clay soil.
Charlotte, is there any reason why this wouldn’t work in my garden from a health standpoint? I know people who mix in horse and chicken manure from friends who have bountiful supplies, but is it safe to mix in rabbit pellets?
Thanks for the great tips!

Trina Delamare Says:
May 14th, 2012 at 8:33 am

I aquired strawberries from my neighbors. These produced berries for me last year with our mild weather June thru October! And the berries were nice and large. I have a garden made out of landscape bricks wich have V shaped pockets that I filled with dirt and put all the strawberries in so the can hang over, I can reach them easily and the plants make the bricks look nice.

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