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July 12, 2013 - GrowOrganic
Budding Indoor Citrus Growing Carrots Mushroom Plugs Grasshoppers Tomato Hornworm Growing Broccoli Kefir Growing Peas Espalier Deer Resistant Plants Herb Spiral Birdhouses Square Foot Gardening Kombucha Growing Herbs Indoors

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Seed Starting
Seed Starting
Grafting Supplies
Grafting Supplies
Zenport 6.5" Grafting/Pruning Knife 3" Blade
Zenport 6.5" Grafting/Pruning Knife 3" Blade
Farwell's Grafting Seal (Quart)
Buddy Grafting Tape - 1"  Wide (Approximately 130 ft long)
Buddy Grafting Tape - 1" Wide (Approximately 130 ft long)
Did you ever plant a fruit tree and then find out it wouldn’t produce in your climate? Did you wish you could wave a magic wand and make the tree change into a different one? Well, you can—but you have to wave a grafting knife instead of a magic wand. You can add different cultivars of apples to an existing apple tree, for instance, for a multi-graft apple tree. Or if you have a healthy plum tree that’s not producing you can graft on another plum cultivar that is better suited to…
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Video Transcript
Hi I'm Tricia an organic gardener. I grow organically for a healthy and safe food supply, for a clean and sustainable environment, for an enjoyable and rewarding experience. Budding and grafting are the easiest ways to get more fruit of a variety that you like or to change the variety of a fruit tree or to make your own multi graft. Today I'll show you the easiest method for beginners, budding. Budding means you take just a bud from the cultivar you want and attach it to the rootstock or under stock. Today I'll be demonstrating T budding which is the easiest. Budding works on trees younger than five with branches smaller than one-half inch and it's the main method used for stone fruits. Be sure to check the patent on any variety you want to bud or graft, a fruit tree patent last 20 years from filing in the US, fruit breeders can spend as long as 15 or even 30 years to develop a variety and respecting their patents ensures that they'll be able to continue to breed and develop delicious new varieties. Budding has to be done at the right time of year between mid July and September is best, that's when the bark slips easily. Soil moisture has a lot to do with the bark slipping if your bark doesn't that means you probably don't have enough cambial activity. To encourage activity in the cambium layer water the tree. If your budding onto a young rootstock it should be between a quarter and a half inch in diameter and the bud should be set about six to twelve inches above the soil. For top working meaning you're gonna change the variety or add a variety the budding should happen between twelve and eighteen inches from the trunk of the under stock remove leaves and branches from the bud area so that you have a clean smooth working surface. Once you have your budding sites selected cut some bud sticks from your desired cultivar this should be done in the morning when the turgor pressure of the tree is at its highest. You want to cut nice healthy shoots with plump buds from the current season's growth, the middle buds are the best so you cut off and discard the top buds and the bottom buds cut off the leaves, but leave about half an inch of the petiole to use as a handle when budding. It's best to use the bud sticks right away if your doing quite a bit a budding put the bud sticks that are waiting to be used in the labeled plastic bag in the shade. If you can't bud the same day you cut the bud sticks or if the bud sticks are coming from a different location they can be stored for up to five days in a plastic bag in the refrigerator just remember the longer they're stored the less chance of success. To remove the bud and to prepare your root stock or under stock for budding you'll need a very sharp knife like this Felco Victorinox. Prepare the rootstock or under stock first by making a one and a half inch vertical cut through just the bark be careful not to cut the wood beneath cut across the bottom of your vertical slit with the blade angled up. I'm using an inverted T bud, inverted T bud tends to be more successful because of the natural downward flow of hormones a right-side up t works too. I'm going to remove the bud of my new cultivar, start your cut half to three-quarters of an inch below the bud and end it half to three-quarters of an inch above the bud it's critical that the back of the bud shield be straight or else it won't take. The bud shield needs to be inserted immediately into the T before it dries out, slide the shield under the bark until it's roughly in the center of the vertical cut make sure that you insert it right side up, buds put in upside down rarely take. Using grafting tape, like this budding tape, wrap the tape around the bud make sure the pressure of the tape doesn't pop the bud shield out. Make sure you don't cover up the bud leave it peeking out between the wrapping check back a week to ten days later to see if it's taken if the shield looks plump and the petioles have fallen off that's good if it's all dried and shriveled up better luck next time. The bud won't sprout this year, next spring right before bud break cut off the wood a half an inch above your successful budding and be alert to pinch of all other shoots in the area except your new bed, marking it with some paint can help. Make your own multi graph tree and grow organic for life!

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Categories: Seed Starting, Grafting Supplies

Powell Says:
Jul 13th, 2013 at 7:17 am

You really need to hang an impermeable label like the aluminum tags (gosh do you sell those?) with the name of the budwood scion etched upon it or you may forget what variety you grafted next season.  And that label will need to be moved onto the graft branch once it comes out or you may not be able to tell which branch is which (as well as foul up and prune your graft off in subsequent years).

jose ayala tanon Says:
Jul 19th, 2013 at 3:54 am


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